RB – Summer, 2007
When I get to taking off the oil pan and cleaning it, can I do that with out pulling the engine.
AEnd – Feb 20, 2007
The oil pan can easily be removed without removing the engine. Once you drop the pan it is a good opportunity to disassemble and clean the oil pump especially the screen.
Crosley19 – Summer, 2007
You do not have to remove the engine to pull the pan, but good luck putting the pan back on and it not leaking. I always have better luck with the engine upside down on an engine stand.
Oil pan braces
wavy48_99 8/17/99
I recently rebuilt my engine on my Crosley and only have
two parts left over. They look like corner braces that would go on the
corners of the oil pan but with only two, I don't know if they are for
the front or back. Could someone please tell me where they go.
Jim_Bollman 8/18/99
The corner braces go in the front corners with the squared
off edge towards the crank.
Oil Pan Sealant
timtmaker - 09/09/2004
I'm replacing the pan gasket on the Crosley. Any
advice on good sealant to use? I've used Hylomar and permatex
before, both of which left me with leaks. I've heard that silicon
can be used very satisfactorily if you're very careful with the
application. Anyone tried that?
berk.walker - 09/09/2004
Except for very slow leaks, a pan sealer isn't even
needed. 1st thing.. the pan has to have "nice" sealing
surfaces. You'll have to pound out the deformation caused
by many years of over-tightening the screws. Straight, flat,
parallel. You will probably want to test fit the pan to the engine (no
sealer, no oil in pan) and see how it fits over the mains (engine
on a stand upside-down is really nice)-- don't tighten it.. just
check. Silicon sealers work well, if your surfaces are spanking clean,
and you use the right amount everywhere. It was God's
answer to non-available soft gaskets. It also makes a good filler
after something "almost seals.. 'cept there". I, in the olden
days, got to like the Permatex spray gasket sealer. Be careful to
not distort the pan at the screw/bolt holes. I don't know
what is better, no sealer, for removal and repair of new
crankshaft seals, etc, or cleaning the sealer off should some
run-in problem be found.
Crosley19 - 09/09/2004
Use silicone only in the corners of the front and rear seal
cork gasket. I glue the rear seal cork, and side cork gaskets to
the crankcase with 3M super weatherstrip adhesive(This will glue
the gaskets into place, and hold them from slipping out as you
install the pan.). Make sure the side gaskets slip under the rear
seal cork. This is where you apply a small blob of silicone
sealant, either red, ultra black, or ultra grey. Glue the front
seal cork to the oil pan. DO NOT CUT IT OFF, LET THE EXCESS STICK
UP EQUAL ON BOTH SIDES! place small blobs of silicone where the
side cork gaskets meet the front seal. I then use plastic gasket
from Loktite on the side cork gaskets. This stuff used with the
plastic gasket primer will fill .020 gaps, and seals the corks so
they do not seep. I have not had any leaky oil pans since I have
been doing this.
chuckhk - 09/10/2004
On every bolt, screw-- in the pan put a dab of silcone on
the threads- -if the gasket leakes this will stop the oil from leaking
out the threads-Keeping the thought that you only have about a
1/8-1/4 inch between the oil and bolt--DO NOT use to much
Silicone anywere--if it gets to the oil pump it will clog the
SCREEN.
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