Is there an after-market 4 blade fan that will retrofit onto my Super Sport engine. I was told once that a Crofton Bug 4 blade would work but I haven't been able to find one. I was hoping there might be an alternative out there somewhere, or if someone knows of an available Crofton Bug fan I would be interested as well.

All the tin engines had 4 bladed fans that can be made to work on a later engine. The tin had the adjustment slot on the block. If you think you need a 4 bladed fan to keep your Super Sports cool you have other problems. Do you have the scoop under the bumper in place? Do you have the cardboard on either side of the radiator in place to force the air threw the radiator? If the above is ok, have you had the water jacket plates off to clean out the crude from the block? Make sure the deflector plate is on the inside of the inlet jacket plate to spread the water out. Some times the impellers in the water pump corrode off. If all the above is OK have your radiator re-cored not just boiled out. The Super Sports will run cool if it is setup correctly I have done it.

I Know how they well help but what did they come on. I have been seeing quite a few of them showing up on E-Bay.

I don't know what else they might have been used on (generators, etc.) but can tell you for sure the 4-blade fan was standard on the Farm-O-Road.

My military generator has a 4 bladed fan, but it is a PUSH fan, not a PULL fan as on road vehicles. The air is pushed forward not pulled back. It cannot be turned around to pull. Dozers have a fan that can be reversed for summer & winter operations. In summer it pushes air into radiator to keep dirt out of radiator. In winter you pull blades up and turn, to pull air into radiator, past engine and into cab to warm operator.

They were used on the Tin Block engines, Generator engines and some industrial engines. Probably some other applications. You have to watch which way the blades are pitched. There are pull fans and push fans. The generators had push fans and that would not be good for car use.

Here's what happened THIS week (get the Kleenex): I took it to a McDonald's cruise-in last Thursday in Racine WI. On the way home, I threw a fanblade, right up into the expansion tank of my month-old new heavy-duty radiator core. I stopped off for a five-gallon water bucket to limp home with.So I'll see if the underside of the tank can be repaired. Otherwise,I'll let you all know. (Has that happened to anyone?)

Now there's a lesson here! Don't rev your engine while your face is under the hood, unless the fanbelt is off! About ten years ago, there was a local guy killed while revving his Chevrolet engine, and one fanblade flew off, and ...

And for all you folks with hot-running cars, a common complaint, get your radiator redone with a heavy-duty core ... eleven fins per inch,instead of the stock seven fins per inch.

Almost lost one...I discovered a crack in the blade near the hub and soldered [I was a kid; it was all I had] it back together at the hub..lucky it never came apart. Seb.

You were lucky. Back in the 70s Jim Batsford and I thought we would drive our Crosleys the 450+ miles out to Wauseon. Jim was driving his 49 wagon with Homelite conversion, I had my 52 SS. About 80 miles from home he lost a blade through the tank and before he could shut down the shaft bent, from being out of balance, and the remaining blade went through the core.

I also have several fans that look like they were repaired

Well, I also have fans that look as though they'd been repaired. This must be a common problem. The car ran so cool with the heavy-duty core, even with the new thermostat, that I'm seriously thinking of prying off the remaining blades and experimenting with natural cooling. (Yes, I'll watch the temp gauge.).

You can do this only if the car is constantly moving; Maybe. When the car is at idle, the radeator and engine compartment will not be able to remove the heat from the coolant.

Small electric temperature controlled fan should be availible from some small car [that would be 12v] but may do enough on 6v. Seb.

This is a start to an idea, to the fan situation. The heater Motor out of the cars are 6 volts. I think we can adapt them to a electric radiator cooling fan, the motor might work. I have not looked at it real close, the fan moter might be to heavy or to big, but at least it is 6 volts. I think if we all put our heads together we can do this.

All you have to do is get an electric radiator fan from the junk yard. Take the armature out of the motor, and remove 1/2 of the windings, Presto you have a six volt! ( too do it right you should rewind the armature with a heavier wire) I like using a mercedes unit, cause you can unbolt them and take the armature out real easy. I have made at least 10 of these for freinds that have Model A's etc. that overheat in parades. If you have it hooked up to use it temporarily for parade laps etc. you can get by without rewinding them with the heavier wire. You can also find a local electric motor shop that can rewind them also. The sender from the Mercedes also works with 6 volt, but you must get a 6 volt relay to wire it up to work automaticaly.

You'll recall that I threw two fanblades, one flying upward into the underside of the expansion tank on my new heavy-duty radiator.

It seems that some CC, CD and VC models may have weak fanblade mountings.

I removed the fanblades altogether and had the tank patched. (It had a 3" gash.) On went the now-fanless hub, and the car operates perfectly without a fan. It seems to be quieter and a bit more powerful as well, but that could just be wishful imagination.

Just to repeat: I installed a heavy-duty core, with eleven fins-per-inch, as opposed to the stock seven fins-per-inch. If your Crosley overheats, consider recoring your radiator with a heavy-duty core. If your local radiator shop acts puzzled about this, go elsewhere.

(Yes, I know ... don't idle too long without a fan, and keep watching the temp gauge .)

I'm wondering if there is a 6 volt, pusher type, fan available that is small enough to mount in front of my radiator? My VC still heats up on hot days and that, of course, limits my driving to spring and fall.

If your using 2 carters on a stock engine--there is far to much gas going into the engine.--The end result is the engine will run HOT--IF the carbs aren't in sync. it will run hotter yet.The carters have an acc. pump,this makes for even more raw gas going into the engine--X 2 --Carters don't have outside main jet adjustments as do the tillotson's --for mild HP motors--the Tillotson is the carb of choice.I have a pr of tillotsons on my car going on 3 yrs.--one of these days i'll fine tune them---meanwhile they just keep working -

Since you said that it's been sitting for 33 yrs, pull the side plates off the block and clean the accumulated crud out of the block.

Especially if it sat all those years without it being drained/flushed before storage.This was my problem with one that was a boat motor and had been stored with water in the jackets. You cannot imagine what it looked like inside!

Also,there is a deflector plate welded to the inside of the plate (water pump attachment) that corrodes away.It's there to make the coolant go around all of the cylinders instead of directly through the center 2,and right out the other side. These things can cause your overheating when flushing does nothing

Does your VC still have its radiator air scoop intact? You need it if it doesn't, unless the front end has been opened up.