Camshafts

Hotter Cam

speedoo51 1/5/01

Crofton 53 ci with 45 hp was the same as the 44 except bore was 2.75, same as Homelite, keeping the 2.25 stroke. Don't know if was left hand ports or standard right or if came either way. I have Crofton sales pamphlets listing the engine for boat applications. The Homelite I looked at had more material on outside of block, between the water jacket covers and the mounting flange. There is not enough room for the hold down nuts so they drilled and tapped from flange face side and screwed in studs that were long enough to go all the way through to main caps! I imagine that the Crofton 53 was done the same way. The Homelite also had a camshaft that was twice the size of a Crosley but kept the same gear drive.

tsrods 1/5/01

You mention the Homelite cam and it being bigger by twice. In what way? Is the base circle larger,if so does the Homelite use a taller cam stand to make up for the higher center line? Also is the cam tanged to drive something on the back of the cam like the military cam which is used to drive the governor. Thanks for the info.

speedoo51 1/5/01

As I remember it's base circle was around twice that of Crosley; close to Ford or Chev v-8's. I think this was to be able to get the necessary lift and duration while reducing unit loading. Stands were taller and lifters may have been larger in dia with some kind of lash adjuster. Don't remember end of cam but that end was up so probably drove distributor[guessing] but there is a Homelite site that will show the [eng cutaway view] and maybe with magnification can see mounting studs I was talking about. I gonna stick my neck out...I got the feeling that the block to crankcase bolt patterns are the same, that the Homelite is a modification of the 53 Crofton. Seb.

tsrods 1/6/01

I think that I have figured it out. The cam that I have been searching for, is a Homelite 55 cam. The tang on the end of the cam is to drive the distributor and the excintric between the #3 and #4 lobe is to drive the fuel pump. Since this cam has a larger base circle, it can be used to regrind to a more radical profile than can be achieved with a stock Crosley or Crofton cam. The bearing spacing is the same between Homelite and Crosley as is the bearing diameter. So, the stock Crosley cam stand can be used unmodified. Thanks to all who have responded to my requests.

speedoo51 1/6/01

Something I just thought of; don't know if cam material/hardness depth will allow as much material to be removed[to get to Crosley base circle?] and still have hardness left or be able to be re-hardened. Could maybe raise center line some as tower shaft splines should be able to handle some[i.e., move bushing and gear up corresponding amount]. Nice idea though. Would be nice to have a whole pile of Crosley, Aerojet, Fageol, Crofton, Homelite, ect, engine parts to be able to mix and match!!

tsrods 1/6/01

They are steel so the cam grinder say. I have talked with 5 cam grinders,they say it is no problem to regrind the steel cams. I had a hard time trying to figure out where the cam came from. Nick Brajevick thought they may have been Military,but that didn't pan out because of the fuel pump lobe on #3 and #4 . Now I can talk with the grinders and know where the source of the cam is.

speedoo51 1/7/01

Which cam grinders have you talked with? I am surprised that they know of Crosley, ect, Isky being the only one I had catalog that listed Crosley. I think Braje was getting unground factory cams so there was enough material to make hot as he wanted. Stock cams in Crosley, Crofton, ect are steel? What are you building?

tsrods 1/7/01

Isky-Clay Smith-Schniders-Braje and Cam Craft are the people that I have been in contact with. They all say they can and have ground Crosley cams, the only one that can't do it is Nick at Braje he said he still has the equipment but it is out dated. The guy's at Schniders and Isky will regrind a welded cam they also straighten the cam before the grind, the filler rod is a hard face type rod that is tig welded. I am building a Lakester to run at Bonneville (scta) and Maxton N.C. (ecta) (landspeed) Jclass 45cid Blown (turbo) on gas and fuel. The body is a 120 gallon drop tank from a F-86 jet (1953)

Cam Followers

CCF 11/20/01

Does any one know what year the part that adjusts the camshaft to valve folower endplay came out or was it there from day one? You know, the part where you can put different size shims on and get the valve to camshaft just right. I knew a man once that told me a story from when he worked in the engine plant in Cincinnati that he was partly responsible for the invention of that part. So was it always engineered from day one or was it changed at some time during manufacturing, thanks in advance if anyone knows.

Jim_Bollman 3/08/02

I can't find the backup info but I recall the earliest production Tin engines used solid cam followers without the slot and the valves were adjusted by taking the cam off and putting shims under the follower.

Lubrication to Camshaft

cosmicray – Sept 6, 2004

I need to find out if I am getting lubricant to the cam shaft. Is it possible to run the engine with the valve cover removed? Will oil spray all over if I do?

A50CrosleyTrk – Sept 6, 2004

Yes it will sling oil all over the place even at idle. You may still want to try it, I have seen oil starved cam shafts. You could dry off cam area and slip back on cover, start for a minute, then take cover back off to see if all is wet with oil. Just be quick to turn off and have rags to soak up oil. I have considered making a valve cover with Plexiglas in it. The troubles I have seen are that the bronze elbow just gets too loose to feed cam with oil and the bronze tower shaft bushing have spun covering an oil port. This system does not require much oil pressure but does require oil at bearings and follower. Think of it more as a flow of oil.

chuckk – Sept 6, 2004

Take the valve cover off, remove the spark plugs, pull coil wire. Crank over engine, it should turn over fast enough to pump the oil, if not, jump the starter using 12 volts. When I redo a motor I prelube everything, then crank the motor until the temporary oil gauge shows oil pressure.