Would anyone here know what the numbers 31 over 6 could mean? They are on a metal tag on one of the differential cover bolts.
Would anyone here know what the numbers 31 over 6 could mean? They are on a metal tag on one of the differential cover bolts.
The gear ratio of the rear end. If you do the division and round to two decimal places you get 5.17 to 1.
I have twisted off the bolts in the ring gear two times this summer and the drive shaft when one of the bolts locked up. is there any cure other than welding the ring gear to the plate?
Are you using a grade 8 bolt in the ring gear? If you are there must be an another reason.
I'm using the original bolts. torque on them is as tight as possible by the book. if I go any more I'm going to twist them off. I have put about 10,000 miles on this summer, but the number of miles should not make any difference.
I have heard of your problem before but have never had the problem myself, one solution could be to clean bolts and threaded holes thoroughly and assemble using Loctite thread locker [red].
The harder the bolt, the more brittle it is, and will snap easier with a side load. Hardened bolts are used to hold parallel torque (cylinder head to block). Use grade 5 bolts to hold the ring gear to the carrier, and torque them to factory torque. Bolt snapping on the ring gear is common on a car that has a 6.5 clutch, and is abused. I probably snapped more ring gear bolts in a Crosley than anyone else. If you are not too hard with the clutch, check your pinion depth. If the pinion is riding high on the ring gear, this will snap the bolts almost every time.
Well when I had this problem I had to go back and clean the holes and the bolts and but them back in and I then proceeded to use the locktite and they have been great ever since.
The problem I'm having is that the bolts shear off , not coming lose. Checking the pinion clearance is a good idea I had not thought of that. I don't hotrod the car but, I don't ride the clutch either. The first time they broke I had slowed down for a light,shifted into 2nd and it tried to lock up. That twisted off the drive shaft. When I replaced the bolts I could see where the head of the bolt had tried to bind.
I had a ring gear bolt head fall off after I torque the original bolts to factory spec. I have been blaming it on fatiguing of the metal. I have read that used bolts can not be torque to the same value as new bolts. My loose head went through the spider and bent something. I think grade 5 bolts are plenty tough for the job, but I don't thing grade 8 would be brittle and break from this use. If torque to the proper levels there should not be any shearing action and grade 8, 3/8 bolt, would not shear very easy anyway. Many years ago, an article in the club quarterly suggested several fixes to keep the bolts from getting loose, which is the more common problem. The only fix that would work for heads breaking off was drilling holes in the heads (or buying pre-drilled) to string tie wire through to tie everything together. This method is used on aircraft's to keep bolts from coming loose.
I had bolts come loose on my 52 conv. I replaced them with grade 8 socket hd screws. I think the problem is cured. However,I would like to make a few comments. First is that the screws are not meant to carry the shear load rather their intent is to clamp the ring gear to the mating surface with enough force that the friction component between the two is high enough to carry the load. I would suspect that failed or sheared bolts are a result of pulled or raised areas around the threaded hole or dirt or nicks between or on the mating surfaces. If either is warped or bent the problem may occur also but this condition would be unusual. Prior to assembly I would use a sizable sanding stone with kerosene to check for surface blemishes and remove if possible with the stone. If the threaded areas are pulled up from the surface it may be necessary to chamfer the holes or grind those areas flat or under the surface. I would use a grade 8 bolt as there is less tendency for the bolt to stretch with use and I would rinse the threads of both with lacquer thinner or suitable solvent, let dry, and then use a thread locker i.e.. Loctite.
It sure helps when you have many minds on a problem. I have several things to check out before spring. I thank you all till better paid as my old mother used to say.
New soloutions since topic was originally discussed. Several over vendors have new bolts with specila locking head along with locktite is the current best soloution. http://CrosleyAutoClub.com/PartsSuppliers.html
Does anybody know why my left rear axle has some in and out slop in it? I haven't taken it apart yet. Thought maybe you guys could give me an idea what the problem is before I dive in head first, with out a helmet!
A small amount of free play (slop) is needed or you will burn the bearings out. When pulling the parts off look for shims behind the plate, remove the thin one, assemble & recheck. Not a bad Idea to install new seals.
How much HP will a Crosley rear end handle?
60 hp if you are gentle. It can't handle 26.5 hp, and popping the clutch
I was at an engine show about six years ago taking with a boat engine collector, and he said the rear axle under his 3-wheeler Cushman is the same as the FarmOroad uses. He also thought the gearbox on the Roto-Rooter units and Farmall Cub transmission would interchange with a Crosley transmission. I was just curious if any of that makes sense, I guess it would mean an alternate source of parts if true?
The rear end on the Cushman 3 wheeler is the same type as used in the Crosley car, not the F-O-R, but the gear ratios on the Cushman were all over the place. The 1975 police unit had a 4.56 ration which work well in the Crosley if you have the engine built up. The trans is a Borg Warner, and I have seen them in all types of different applications I have seen in drill presses,well driller rigs (hooked up to the winch. The Farmall cub does not have the same trans or use the same gears.
Will the Cushman 3 wheeler diff. gears fit the closed driveshaft without modifying? The Cushmans were open driveshaft?
The whole rear will fit, just remove the yoke and install the enclosed driveshaft assy, and install the Crosley backing plates and drums, or install the gears. Either way they interchange.
Thank you all for clarifying. My father sold the front axle of his '41 Crosley years ago for a trailer axle, still has the rear but it has sat behind the barn for years. More recently he gave the good seat and a chrome bumper to a friend who was restoring one, we were just discussing possibilities of resurrecting it in some form. I have a photo to scan in of a rig someone ran around out at the Canaidaigua, NY "Pageant of Steam" using a one cylinder gas engine on a Crosley chassis.
I have removed the axles,& the bearing caps, but can't seem to get the ring gear and spider assembly out of the housing. What is the trick to this? I was thinking of using a small chain aroung the assembly attached to a dent puller/slamer and give it a gentle nudge.
I simply rotate the carrier around until the large holes are on the top and bottom. Then with 2 prybars gently pry the assembly out. It comes out rather easily, but firmly, so be careful and be ready to catch the parts (carrier and 2 bearing races) as they slide loose.
cosmicray48236 5/15/01
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