lboulerice 6/1/00 11:16 pm
I have a stuck valve on a cast iron engine. What is the best way to free it up? It is tighter than a frog's butt in ice water! I have managed to move it by filling the cylinder with rope and cranking it over with a pry bar in the flywheel. There must be a better way? Any ideas? I don't want to disassemble the engine, if at all possible. Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks! Leo
johnniemann1999 6/5/00 12:24 pm
Remove spark plugs,cam cover, cam and cam followers this will allow you to oil the valve with automatic trans fluid also put some in the cylinders. Allow this to sit for a couple hours. To replace cam turn engine so #1 is at top dead center. place cam so that the first lobe #1 exhaust is pointing to 10 o'clock and #1 intake is pointing to 2 O'clock. This usually works.
klownskar 12/6/01 8:57 am
Are the intake & exhaust valves the same size? Are they the same metal (heat treating)? Thanks.
Jim_Bollman 12/6/01 8:28 pm
The intake valve is bigger than the exhaust. Not sure about the stock valves but I know after market you could get special hardened exhaust valves to resist burning the seats. Jim...
viper1941 2/29/00 6:39 pm
In reference to my valve spring statement of last msg...There wasn't another engine type that fit...my dad just took the springs down to Miami parts and spring and had the stock ones retempered..and (believe it or not) he had Crosleys turning upwards of 9000 revs. I recall missing shifts on my little s/w and hitting 6500 and mine was just a little better than stock. The biggest limiting factors were the cranks and very mild cams...My dad was often accused of making rubber cams...the higher the revs...the wilder the grind....AHHH...I babble again... ViperHardened Valves