Jim_Bollman 7/3/01 10:05 pm
Any of you have any tricks to share on how to get the main jet and idle jet out of the Tillotson carburetor without ruining the jet or carb. I want to rebuild a couple, but the first two I tried to take apart I could not get the jets out. Jim...
crosley19 7/4/01 8:22 am
I have always had luck removing the jets by first bead blasting the carb and jets. This removes the scale that locks them in place, and also cleans the screwdriver groove, also put a little grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver, this gives it extra friction so it won't slip out. (this works well with stubborn Philips screws also)
Crosley_AZ 10/22/98 11:51 pm
I got the 51 running with new plugs.....but this Tillotson carb is driving me crazy and I have worked on mechanical and electronic fuel injection besides carbs of all types ! The fuel pump valves were gummed up from sitting, got that fixed. The carb is too lean at hi-speed so we are soaking it over nite and will take another look at it on Friday. I got a show I
BUGGER5913 10/24/98 7:21 pm
Hi AZ I don't know where you are at on your carb by now, if you have a manual never mind my message, if not read on....Float level 1&27/64" from top of float seam to air horn ( carb top) adjust both floats evenly, you can use a 3/16 dia rod or drill bit shank under the floats. INTIAL ADJUSTMENTS: Completely close idle adjustment screw until seated (don't force it!) Back out one and one quarter turn. Proceed with main jet(fast speed) in same manner except open 2& 3/4 turns after being closed. engine should start and run, bring to full operating temp, now open throttle to about the half open position and adjust the main jet in (close) until engine loses speed, then back out at 1/8th turn steps until max speed and power is obtained. final setting should be approximately 2 or 2 1/8 turns open for warm weather. IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT: make this setting last, set idle speed up slightly, now slowly turn idle mix screw in until engine loses speed, misses, stumbles, turn back in opposite direction until engine smooths out and runs steadily, now lower your idle speed back down to 700 rpm or 7 or 8 mph road speed. ( I'm thinking this would be in 1st gear) tho it does not state this, hope this helps, if not let me know and I'll see what I can do to help.
wavy48_99 3/19/00 8:27 pm
Seen a Crosley in St Louis Easter Show few years back. Man from Illinois had a home made firetruck which had a Holley single barrel carb on it. I'm trying to find out the model of the carb. he said it was a direct fit. Anybody know of this carb? Appreciate any help, I would like to try this combo.
chuckhk1941 3/20/00 9:44 pm
Most holley carbs came as stock on superchargers. some early Braje intakes used them. the holes in the base had to be oval shaped to fit. Most fit 850CC & up engines, they required a special main jet for different engine sizes. If still interested I'll get you a carb # off the one on my supercharged Crosley. Chuck
vc30323 10/7/00 11:55 am
My Carter carb needs rebuilding. If I do it now, and then store the car for the winter, will the new accelerator pump dry out by Spring? Would I be better off waiting until Spring to do the rebuild? Is there a way to prevent the pump from drying out during storage or will it have to be replaced every year? When installing the pump, should I soak it in water first? Thanks for all info! Jim H.
chuckhk1941 10/7/00 8:53 pm
Don't soak the pump in water!! soak it in OIL-this will keep the LEATHER soft. An old trick is to soak the old pump in oil to bring it back to life. NO WATER. Chuck
I'm in the process of replacing a carburetor (broken idle tube), and I've run into an access problem. Is there an easy way to get to that last bolt that is wedged between the carburetor and the block -- or do I have to be a contortionist?bsmedleyt - 3/5/2004 11:44 AM
Take off the valve cover and you can get to it a lot easier.mfstach - 3/5/2004 7:13 PM
Get yourself an old box wrench. Grind it so it is thin walled. Then grind it so it is not so high. You are making the outside width and heigth smaller. Also remove the valve cover. Nice Chatting with you last night.Papajaks - 3/5/2004 7:38 PM
I phind it easier to take off the #3 upper cam bearing and cover bolt as well.A50CROSLEYTRK - 3/5/2004 8:45 PM
If you don't mine the carb. nuts being "correct", I like to use connecting rod nuts because they are 7/16" hex size.chuckhk - 3/6/2004 4:45 PM
I've used the rod nut on the inside stud--it makes the job a snap. Be careful removing as the nut hits the carb before it's off--also check to make sure the base isn't bent.sunivroc - 3/15/2004 4:27 PM
Well...I finally got the ##@%&^ carburetor off. (I ended up grinding and filing a 1/2" wrench almost down to almost nothing to get it into the space -- then finishing the job with my fingers when the space was too tight for the wrench.) The inside fitting on my manifold is a bolt. (stud on the outside -- and a threaded hole on the inside -- that a bolt with a 1/2" head fits into.) Is this standard? (My parts engine has two studs on the manifold for the carburetor.)chuckhk - 3/15/2004 6:12 PM
Two studs are correct-just buy another stud or take it out of your parts engine--to take out, place 2 nuts together (lock them tight) & turn the stud out.