Gas Tank

Cleaning a Tank

Jim_Bollman 11/10/00 7:41 pm

A friend cleaned out a Crosley gas tank by putting few hand fulls of crushed stone in the tank and tied it in a cement fixer. He then ran the mixer till the stones and beat all the rust out. Then after rinsing well, I think he used a coating compound inside. Jim...

chuckhk1941 11/10/00 10:48 pm

I take my tanks (IF solid) to the sandblaster--he clamps a rubber hose on the end-inserts in tank-hose flops around & cleans inside--he blasts outside also. Super Job--$10.00

vc30323 11/12/00 11:59 am

The problem with cleaning a gas tank by sandblasting or rolling gravel around inside is getting all the crud out afterwards. Sand in the gas tank is a definite no-no. I think you're safer having the tank boiled out at a radiator shop. I believe Eastwood sells a 1-part coating for the inside of the tank. Jim H.

Jim_Bollman 11/12/00 8:20 pm

I agree getting all the dirt out after sandblasting or rolling gravel is tough but after you get it as clean as you can, putting in the tank coating stuff will embed all that remains in the rubber coating so it shouldn't be a problem. When all else fails fiberglass tanks that look like the steel ones, unless you tap on them, are available for the later style. I also know of a repo project that will make the earlier style in steel available in the future if all goes well. Jim... Eastwood Tank Sealer

speedoo51 11/12/00 8:29 pm

Word of caution: My experience when I tried to use it in filler tube it hardened so quick that if I put it in large volume like tank it would harden before coating entire tank and it is so thick you can't slosh it around. Ended up thinning 1 to 1 with keytone and was tolerable. If had to do again I would thin 2:1 or more. Had some stuff [I think from Hirch] 30 years ago that was the consistency of milk, worked great! Don't know if present day Hirch is as good.

bltlar 11/12/00 10:26 pm

"Kreem" is a 3 part tank coating $30.00 that worked fine for me. Had boiled out at rad shop, shook nuts in it, filled with one part and water overnight. Used second part, dried and blew out with warm air. Used 3rd part to coat and shook around. Dried overnight. Looked good in tank. No problems yet. A lot of work but what isn't. Got to keep original tank.

tugalug2000 11/13/00 11:00 pm

Just a note to say if you get a tank that is to bad some radiator shops has a sealer that coats the inside and outside of the tank, the inside is a red color the outside black looks good lifetime warranty. I had a radiator shop and I used a red color sealer it work will to.

crosley52 2/23/02 5:56 pm

I have cleaned tanks before with pea sized stones from garden shop about 5 lbs. add some Ajax cleanser and water and shake for a long time replacing water and cleanser occasionally, shake all out and rinse with water till clean, I use a hair dryer to dry out and then make covers for all holes and dump in a quart of tank liner seal it up and turn all over to coat all of inside, open and pour out excess back in can,tomorrow pour tank liner back in and recoat again and drain,when dry you have a tank that will last as long as you live and never rust again. I get tank liner from Little Dearborn Ford Parts.

DaleF62 23 Feb 2002 14:39:19 PST

Most common thing that plugs a gas tank is ....RUST! The only way to fix is to remove the tank and have it cleaned or clean yourself. Then replace tank and put a inline filter on and change regularly for awhile. There are many postings on gas tank cleaning. Dalef62

 crosley52 23 Feb 2002 14:56:16 PST

I have cleaned tanks before with pea sized stones from garden shop about 5 lbs. add some ajax cleanser and water and shake for a long time replacing water and cleanser occasionally, shake all out and rinse with water till clean, I use a hair dryer to dry out and then make covers for all holes and dump in a quart of tank liner seal it up and turn all over to coat all of inside, open and pour out excess back in can,tomorrow pour tank liner back in and recoat again and drain,when dry you have a tank that will last as long as you live and never rust again.. I get tank liner from Little Dearborn Ford Parts.

mrcooby 23 Feb 2002 15:30:56 PST

Here's a similar story. In 1985 I was invited to ride in the Wadsworth, Illinois parade aboard the Newport Township FD Crosley. There is a steep hill upward off the main street and the Crosley climbed it, and then died. The crew couldn't restart it. They then prepared to attach a chain to tow it through the parade. But how would that look? Thinking about that steep hill, I had a hunch that the tank outlet had plugged with silt while the Crosley climbed it. I told my hunch to the crew. Quickly they disconnected the fuel line at the pump and blew through ... hard! Reconnecting, we primed the carburetor, and it fired. The Crosley rolled proudly under its own power that beautiful September day. With me aboard.

 

'47 CC Gas Tank Location

cosmicray48236 11/27/01 7:53 pm

I purchased a gas tank from Benson Stake several months ago and am now trying to install it. As shipped to me, it will hit the filler plug on the differential housing. Has anyone had this problem and if so, how did you fix it? Thanks. Skip

cosmicray48236 11/28/01 9:08 pm

Apparently someone along the way relocated the gas tank in this car so I don't know exactly where it belongs. Can anyone tell me the distance between the cross member and the tank. With that info I will be able to make new brackets and put it where it belongs. Thanks Skip

hitekwarehouse 11/29/01 7:37 am

I have a 48 cc Convertible I am restoring, right now the cross member is not in, however from the lip that holds the stone shield to the rear of the tank mount bracket is 16 1/2". The bracket is the one that you slide square head bolts in, and it is 10 3/4" long. I just mounted the tank, and the differential left side is the closest to the tank, less than one inch. The filler plug sets a bit lower than the tank. dmabie@strato.net

 

Repo Gas Tanks

crosley52 2/20/02 6:12 pm

Hello all I want to know if anyone is reproducing steel gas tanks for Crosleys, if not I would like to know how many people out there would like to buy a brand new steel gas tank for their Crosley that would be coated on inside to prevent ever rusting and have a new sending unit installed all you would have to do is bolt it on and never worry again about the tank. Price would depend on how many sold but would now be $250.00 delivered any where in USA. This project would take about 6 months to get of the ground so if you are interested please email me with your name address and phone no. so I can start the count down. Thank you all for reading this.. Ron.. I know their is a fiberglass tank being reproduced but I personally prefer steel.

Jim_Bollman 2/20/02 6:35 pm

I think production of the fiberglass tanks has been stopped. I heard from several people that the last time he tried to get a batch made the price had gone up to the point he didn't think there would be a market. I need to find out for sure and remove him from the parts supplier list if it is true. Jim...

crosley52 2/20/02 7:08 pm

Thanks for the update Jim, I think this would be a good project but it is very expensive to start and I need to know if there is a real need for them and how many people would buy them if I did make new tanks... Ron Hofmann

chuckhk1941 2/20/02 8:24 pm

Neal Daglow has purchased the fiberglass tank molds & expects to produce them. I talked to him 2 weeks ago & that was what he told me.

johnniemann1999 2/20/02 8:49 pm

Benson Stake used to sell fiberglass gas tanks I bought two a couple years ago. One I filled with formulated gas in my super sports an ended up replacing the tank with steel he provided because the gas reacted with the resin and caused the drain plug to leaf and fall in. the other still is in good condition. so if some one is going to reproduce them in glass check out the Chicago area for gas this ids where I live and this created my problem. John Elmhurst, Ill (Not making any more)

silkytwo_99 2/21/02 1:20 am

Barry Seel, kingmidg1@aol.com made a steel one for my HS recently. I don't know if he wants to make any more or not but worth a try. He needs the old tank for the sender mount and filler location. Mike (Not making any more)

crosley52 2/21/02 4:10 pm

I will make this clear I am not talking about making by hand a few tanks I am talking about making the dies to form the tanks in 2 parts welding together as the factory tanks were made adding all necessary hardware coating with tank liner so they never rust installing new sending unit and shipping to you. This is a major project and I will need support from all who need tanks before I would consider it.

crosley19 2/21/02 5:22 pm

If you can keep the price under $150. They will sell. I would buy 2. Barry

crosley52 2/21/02 6:41 pm

That is not in the cards right now but if I could get about 500 sold it would be. The cost for dies that large will be $16,000.00 and if I sold 200 I would break even with all the other costs and labor. I am hoping for 200 tanks in 2 years to do that.. Ron

crosley52 Sun, 24 Feb 2002 06:26:19 PST

Here's something for you all to think about, what if I were to put together a package with all the pieces formed and ready to assemble for gas tank and could do it for a reasonable price ?? how many would be interested.

 

Gas Tank Sealer

mcriverbug Apr 21, 2002 3:45:11 PM

Where can I find a supplier for "Kreem" for gas tank? I have used it before on Whizzer gas tanks, with great results. I could not find it in Hemmings. 

Jim Bollman Apr 21, 2002 7:32:00 PM

John, After doing the following search it looks like a product you can get at a motorcycles shop. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Kreem+gas+tanks

Gas Tank Fills Slow and Blows Back and the Gas Gauge Bounces

Crosley gas tanks not filling at a reasonable rate, with out the gas gushing back out was reported by several members and we certainly don't want to waste any gas these days.  There was a long discussion with as many having the problem as offering solutions.  Here are a few of the solutions that were offered.  I edited the material to save space and minimizing the repeat information.

Garyellis1056 - 

Blown air through vent pipe to be sure it is not clogged. Remove the tank and add gas-line to the vent pipe to raise the end closer to the top of the tank.  Check for small crack in the vent pipe where the vent pipe is fixed to the filler tube.

Chuckhk - 

Check if vent tube is bent down in the tank, should be bent towards the top of the tank.  Most vents get bent when the neck is removed, or straighten so they go in easier. Make sure the vent tube isn't bent part way shut.

JimBollman - 

What if you got a hole or a split in the part of the vent tube going down the filler pipe.  This could have been from it being stressed from bumping the part that sticks out in the tank when installing.  The air coming up the vent would suck some gas in to the vent as it went by during filling.  This could explain why extending the vent didn't help. Try plugging one end and blowing threw the vent to see if it is air tight?

Ealimke - 

Replace the vent tub. Mine had a small hole on the under side and it would fill up with gas and then it does not vent.
Garyellis1056 -
I recently had the same experience.  I worked the problem for a year and removed the gas tank three times. The problem probably is the vent tube inside the filler tube.  The vent tube is brazed to the base of the filler tube where it exits and where the piece of hose connects it to the gas tank .  The vent then continues on into the gas tank slopping upward.  In my case, the vent tube was cracked where is was brazed at the end of the filler tube, (it had been brazed before.  Must be a weak point) which allowed gas to enter the vent.  I removed the filler tube, dropped the tank and had a machine shop close the crack and re-braze the vent,  I carefully reinserted the vent into the tank.  It corrected the problem.

A50CrosleyTrk - 

My Dad run the vent tube from the top of the tank, outside of the  filler tube, though the frame, back to the filler tube inside the  wagon, and kept it as high with no swags as possible.  A dip in the  pipe could collect gasoline and cause the air block.

IsettaJoe - 

I may have to drop the tank. How much of a job is it? Any "surprises" to be aware of? When the vent tube goes into the tank, I assume it needs to be above the gas line. As long as it looks like I am going to need to drop the tank on my 52 wagon, does anyone have advice on what to look for that is causing my gas gauge to bounce wildly all the time from 1/4 to 3/4 full?

Berard - 

You will need to get the vent to the very highest point possible. Once the fuel reaches this point and covers the inside end of the vent you have lost all venting. On my 51 SS I have removed the tank in December and it's a piece of cake providing you have no rust to deal with. On mine it involves 4 nuts and the pipe to the front of the car, lower it enough to get to disconnect the fuel gage sender wires, and the filler pipe follows the whole mess out.

Ealimke - 

I had the same gas gauge problem, I dropped the tank and looked inside and the baffle had broken loose and let the gas slouch back and forth.

Plugged Gas Tank Pickup Tube

super52sport – 6/16/05

After sitting in storage for 27 years with some gas in the tank the pickup tube in the gas tank on my '52 Supersport is plugged up. I've tried blowing trough it and pushing a wire through it. I can't find a wire that is strong enough to push through the blockage but flexible enough to go around the corner. I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this problem. Anyone have a solution? The tank is out of the car.
If noone has a better idea I'm going to try to make a "snake" out of a piece of speedometer cable turned by an electric drill.
BTW, it started right up after I filed the points and poured a little gas in the carb. I had to disconnect the water pump becasue it won't turn.

chuckhk – 6/16/05

Yep speedometer cable.

hotshotcrosley – 6/17/05

Had the same problem on a Hot Shot and used a cutoff speedo cable on a drill and it fixed the problem.

super52sport – 6/17/05

Thanks. It worked. It wasn't easy and I had to flatten out the end to make it cut.