Bendix wheel cylinders bores

bltlar 1/9/01 4:00 pm

HELP! 50 HS Rear wheel cylinders are 7/8" bore. Fronts are 1" bore. Is this correct? Thought both had to be the same. Maybe some of you good wrench benders can tell a old man what is correct. Thanks! Larry

chuckhk1941 1/9/01 5:43 pm

Front cyl's are always LARGER than the rear-this gives more braking power to the front & stops the rear wheels from locking .

Jim_Bollman 1/9/01 10:03 pm

1 inch cylinders on the front and 7/8 inch rear is correct for the Bendix brakes. Jim...


Brake Shoes

cosmicray48236 3/17/01 4:24 pm

I am replacing brake shoes on a CC. The existing shoes are all installed differently. The shoes have a chamfer like angle on what I believe is referred to as the heel. I think that the angle should face the angled face of the adjusting bolt that runs through the backing plate. True or false? There are two springs of different size on each brake assembly. Does the large spring go on the "heel" end or the "cam" end? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

speedoo51 3/17/01 6:06 pm

The heavier spring hooks inward at the cam end of the shoes and the lighter spring hooks outward at the other end of shoes [this is direct copy from manual]; I can only assume that the brakes that had the adjuster as part of the cam [adj nut in center of lever, later version of mech brakes?] used the same springs attached in same manner. Seb.


Drum Puller

vc30323 10/18/00 2:21 pm

Anybody have a slick tip on pulling the rear brake drums, or will I have to go buy, rent, borrow, or steal a wheel-puller? Jim H.

crosley19 10/18/00 7:16 pm

What! You don't have a 50 Plymouth wheel. I thought everybody that owned a Crosley had one! If you need one I suggest trying to find an old local garage. He probably has one he's been tripping over since 57, and sell it to you cheap. Barry

vc30323 10/18/00 9:09 pm

Hey thanks, Barry -- I'll keep my eyes peeled. But shortly after I posted my original message I borrowed a puller from a mechanic neighbor. Fortunately it fit the small bolt-circle. What's so special about a '50 Plym puller? And if a '50 works, wouldn't a '49 or '51 work as well? Just curious. Jim H.

Jim_Bollman 10/18/00 9:10 pm

I'm not sure what a 50 Plymouth wheel puller looks like so I may be describing the same thing. I never used a regular jaw type puller again after messing up an axle, many years ago, and having to use a thread chaser on it to clean up the flared end. The proper puller is not really a puller at all, not even sure what the official name for it is. It looks like a heavy duty nut, but the treads don't go all the way threw, it is like a screw on cap with a flat top. You screw it on in place of the axle nut till it is with in a 1/16th or so of being tight. You then whack it with a large hammer. If it doesn't loosen the drum immediately, use some large screw driver stuck in between the backing plate and drum to apply a bit of tension and whack it again. This has worked on some pretty rusty drums. I picked up a set of these knock offs a long time ago. If these knock off pullers are not available, you could make one pretty easy. Jim...

vc30323 10/19/00 12:13 pm

Interesting! But I don't quite understand how it works. This thing lets you bang on the end of the axle -- is that really enough to break the drum loose? Jim H.

chuckhk1941 10/19/00 12:22 pm

The style Jim B. talked about works fine--I have a few of them, however they can be purchased from MAC's In NY--seems they are the same as FORD MODEL T.

Jim_Bollman 10/19/00 8:47 pm

You pretty much got the picture. You want a safe way to hit the end of the axle a sharp blow to break it loose from the drum. It is amazing how well it works. I suppose some penetrating oil could be used in addition if it is really rusted bad. Jim...

Jim_Bollman 1/14/01 6:49 pm

I posted to a Tools Album 3 pictures of the Knock Off type puller that keeps coming up (see below). The first two pictures are the puller (sorry I should have put a ruler in the picture). The third picture shows it in action removing a rear brake hub from my FarmOroad. As it has been discussed before: Take off the axle nut and replace it with the puller . Tighten the puller till it is almost against the brake drum or till it bottoms out on the axle, which ever comes first. Hit the puller a sharp blow with a hammer. The hub should pop loose. Some have said to use a bit of heat on the hub if it is really stuck but I have never needed to do that. Using this approach you don't flare the end of the axle and mess up the threads. I have no idea where you can buy one of these but you could make one with some hex rod and a 5/8-18 tap. Another idea is to use a rod coupler if you can find one with that thread and screw a short bolt into one end. Jim...

chuckhk1941 1/14/01 7:36 pm

Jim, I looked at photos of puller. I use this type rather than my larger ones. This type is still sold--price $10.00 or less-sometime back I listed the phone #--if needed I'll do it again.

chuckhk1941 1/15/01 11:56 am

Wheel puller # WK4235 - price as of 1/15/2001--$3.50 Mac's Antique Auto Parts--Lockport, NY-Phone # 1-800-777-0948 - they have a supply of them. This puller fits Crosley. It's the same as a FORD MODEL-T.

for365nc 1/15/01 4:40 pm

You can also order online at Mac's Antique Auto Parts. Do the search by part No.

Cracked Brake Drum Keyway

Papajaks – 3/04/06

Both rear drums are cracked at the keyway.  The local parts store  ordered National Red-Sleeves # 99149.  [even comes with installation press  cups].  Left the drums outside overnite to shrink,  dropped the sleeves into hot water to expand   and with the help of a small hammer  to coax them on,  they're phixed.   Downside: the sleeves were  $40 apiece!

Chuckhk – 3/05/06

Did you V grove and weld the drum before installing the sleeve ??  Down here in Pa. I paid $25. and change for mine--must be that darn Island.